At first glance, this permaculture garden in the heart of Austria’s Zillertal Valley looks untamed. To the untrained eye, everything seems to grow wildly together, vegetables surrounded by “weeds” and runner ducks wandering in between.
I’m visiting Peter Fankhauser, a Michelin-starred chef in Stumm.
“That’s where the cheese plant grows. Come along.”
The garden is buzzing with life and bursting into bloom. Somewhere, I catch the scent of lovage and oregano. On our way to the cheese plant, I learn just how many varieties of coriander exist and why weeds have their place in the garden. I also find myself admiring the beauty of Jerusalem artichoke flowers.
Peter Fankhauser has collected around 800 different seed varieties, including plants that had almost disappeared.
Chervil root, tuberous nasturtium, yacon. Plants that don’t even have a category in the average supermarket. Fankhauser knows every single one of them.
“For me, it was absolutely clear: if I grow something myself, it has to be as close to nature as possible. And permaculture represents the highest quality I can produce in the most natural way.”
With Peter Fankhauser, it’s all or nothing. Whether as a trail runner, marathon runner or chef.
His approach, “from permaculture to table”, is implemented without compromise. Around 80% of the ingredients used in his kitchen come from his own garden. Whenever possible, he sources the rest from regional producers.
When he talks about it, it doesn’t sound like a philosophy he’s trying to defend. To him, it’s simply the obvious way to do things.
From Garden to Plate
After exploring the garden, we head into the restaurant. The interior is bright and welcoming, with birch trunks and hay-patterned wallpaper reflecting the connection to nature.
I’m served a dish with the simple name Sunflower, Cranberries, Porcini Mushrooms.
Earthy tones with little touches of yellow.
The flavours unfold gradually. First, the tartness of the cranberries, followed by the earthy aroma of porcini mushrooms and the nutty notes of sunflower.
Petals, the base of the flower and seeds are all incorporated into the dish. Everything I’d just been able to admire and experience in the garden is now on my plate.
“I believe every country has its own luxury ingredients and natural treasures, and more of them should find their way onto the plates of fine-dining restaurants. Less is often more, as long as the quality is exceptional.”
Peter Fankhauser demonstrates that haute cuisine is entirely possible with local ingredients.
There’s no need for ingredients that come with a high carbon footprint. What grows right outside the door is enough. In the case of Guat’z Essen, quite literally.
Where other chefs rely on meat to create depth of flavour, Peter takes a different approach, using ingredients such as fermented leek ash.
Before I leave, Peter picks a sprig of the cheese plant for me.
“Try it. What does it taste like?”
I take a bite and am surprised.
It tastes like Camembert.
