The sun is just rising. The first light glistens on the dew covering fresh mountain herbs, and the delicate scent of earth hangs in the air. Among them stands a man determined to capture that freshness and those aromas: Vitus Winkler.
At Kräuterreich, his restaurant at the Designhotel Sonnhof in St. Veit im Pongau, he brings Alpine flavours and wild herbs to the plate with remarkable precision. Two Michelin stars, four Gault&Millau toques and the title of Chef of the Year 2026. Yet up here in the mountains, all those awards seem secondary. What matters is the produce itself, the herbs and plants that grow here, along with the mushrooms.
They form one of the foundations of his cuisine. But their importance doesn’t end with the food. They also find their way into the glass.
“Our work with wild herbs, fermentation and essences doesn’t end in the kitchen. Many of these flavours also find their way into our drinks.”
What is served in the glass doesn’t simply accompany the menu. It continues the same story. The drinks pairing is no longer an alcohol-free addition, but part of the journey itself.
The sequence of courses follows the idea of a walk, or perhaps more accurately, a hike through the mountains. It begins gently in the village, leads across fields and through forests, past babbling streams and shady trees. Then the path becomes steeper, climbing above the treeline before reaching its destination: an Alpine pasture after a demanding ascent.
The glass accompanies this journey like a quiet fellow traveller. And it demonstrates that an experience without alcohol can be every bit as exciting.
I asked Vitus Winkler five questions about his approach.
What makes a truly successful alcohol-free pairing for you?
For me, a successful alcohol-free pairing is far more than a substitute for wine. It is an independent part of the menu and deserves the same attention as every dish. When flavours, textures and temperatures complement one another perfectly, they create a harmonious overall experience. Alcohol-free drinks in particular offer the opportunity to surprise guests with entirely new flavour experiences.
How closely does the kitchen need to be involved in developing alcohol-free pairings?
Very closely. For me, food and drinks always develop through dialogue. The kitchen and the team responsible for creating the pairings work closely together. This allows herbs, ferments or essences to appear both on the plate and in the glass. It creates a sense of coherence throughout the menu and brings everything together as one complete concept.
You forage for wild herbs yourself and work with essences and fermentation. How does that influence your alcohol-free pairings?
Our work with wild herbs, fermentation and essences doesn’t end in the kitchen. Many of these flavours also find their way into our drinks, in the form of kefir, kombucha, herbal teas and homemade oils. This creates a connection between the plate and the glass that can be both very precise and surprising. Alcohol-free pairings in particular offer an incredible range of creative possibilities.
What can an alcohol-free pairing offer that wine cannot?
It opens up an entirely different creative space. We can work with fresh herbs, ferments, teas or seasonal ingredients to develop flavours that simply don’t exist in wine. At the same time, it allows our guests to enjoy an exceptional experience, even if they have to drive home afterwards. That way, they can discover something unexpected not only in the food but also in the drinks.
How has guests’ perception of high-quality alcohol-free pairings changed in recent years?
Interest has grown significantly. More and more guests are consciously choosing alcohol-free pairings, not because they feel they’re giving something up, but because they’re curious about new flavour experiences. Today, they expect just as much creativity and quality in the glass as they do on the plate. This shows that a high-quality alcohol-free pairing is no longer a compromise.
This interview was originally conducted in German and translated into English.
